Spices: How to Buy, Store, Toast, Grind and Use Them for the Best Flavor

A spice rack can be one of the most exciting corners of a kitchen, or one of the most neglected. Many households have a cupboard full of jars bought for a single recipe years ago, their contents faded to a dusty, flavorless powder. Yet a small, fresh, well-used collection of spices can transform simple ingredients: a pinch of cumin in a pot of beans, smoked paprika on roasted potatoes, cinnamon in a stew, cardamom in rice. Knowing how to buy, store and cook with spices makes a bigger difference to everyday cooking than almost any gadget.

This guide explains the difference between whole and ground spices, suggests a starter collection, offers tips for buying without waste, explains how to store spices so they keep their flavor, how to toast, bloom and grind them, how to use blends, when to add spices during cooking, and how to tell when a spice is past its best.

Whole or ground?

Spices get their aroma and flavor from volatile oils inside them. Once a spice is ground, those oils are exposed to air and start to fade.

A practical approach for most home cooks is to buy whole spices for those you use often and can grind easily, such as cumin, coriander and black pepper, and ground spices for those that are hard to grind at home or used in small amounts, such as turmeric, paprika and ground ginger.

A starter collection

You do not need dozens of jars. A starter collection covering many cuisines might include:

• black peppercorns, for grinding fresh;
• cumin, seeds or ground, for Mexican, Middle Eastern, North African and South Asian dishes;
• coriander, seeds or ground, with a warm, citrusy flavor;
• paprika, sweet and smoked;
• chili flakes or chili powder, for heat;
• cinnamon, sticks and ground, for both sweet and savory dishes;
• turmeric, for color and earthy warmth;
• ground ginger, for baking and curries;
• dried oregano and thyme, the most versatile dried herbs;
• bay leaves, for soups, stews and beans.

Add more as you cook new dishes: cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, fennel seeds, mustard seeds, star anise or ready-made blends such as garam masala.

Buying spices without waste

• Buy small quantities, especially of spices you use rarely. A large jar that loses its flavor before you finish it is not a bargain.
• Look for shops with a high turnover, such as specialist spice shops or international grocers, where stock is fresher and often cheaper.
• Buy whole when practical, since whole spices keep longer.
• Check dates on packaging, keeping in mind that "best before" refers to quality, not safety; see our guide to food date labels explained.
• Refill jars from bags rather than buying new jars every time.

Storing spices

Heat, light, air and moisture are the enemies of spices.

• Use airtight containers, such as glass jars with tight lids or tins.
• Keep them in a cool, dark place, such as a drawer or cupboard away from the stove, oven and dishwasher.
• Avoid storing spices above the stove, even though it is convenient, because heat and steam fade them quickly.
• Do not shake jars directly over steaming pots; steam gets in and causes clumping.
• Label jars with the name and the date you opened or filled them.
• Use dry spoons.

Some cooks keep rarely used spices or large quantities in the freezer in airtight containers, which can extend their life. Let them come to room temperature before opening to avoid condensation.

How long do spices last?

Spices rarely become unsafe, but they lose flavor. As a general guide:

• ground spices are at their best for a limited time after opening, often a year or so;
• whole spices keep their flavor considerably longer;
• dried leafy herbs fade faster than seeds and barks.

The best test is your nose. Rub a pinch between your fingers: if the aroma is faint or dusty, the spice is past its best. Faded color, especially in paprika and dried herbs, is another sign.

Our guide to how to stock a pantry covers organizing other dry goods too.

Toasting whole spices

Toasting whole spices in a dry pan brings out their aroma and adds a nutty depth.

1. Heat a dry frying pan over medium heat.
2. Add the whole spices in a single layer.
3. Shake the pan or stir constantly.
4. Toast for a minute or two, until fragrant and a shade darker.
5. Tip them onto a plate immediately to stop the cooking.

Spices burn quickly, and burnt spices taste bitter. If they smoke heavily or turn black, start again.

Blooming spices in fat

Many recipes, especially curries, dals and stews, begin by cooking spices in hot oil or butter. This is often called blooming or tempering. The fat absorbs the aromatic oils and carries their flavor through the whole dish.

• Whole spices, such as cumin seeds, mustard seeds or cinnamon sticks, go into hot oil first, until they sizzle or pop.
• Ground spices are usually added after onions or other aromatics, for a shorter time, stirring constantly so they do not burn.
• A finishing tempering, where spices are sizzled in hot oil or ghee and poured over a finished dish, adds a burst of aroma at the end, as in many lentil dishes.

Our guide to weeknight curry basics shows blooming in action.

Grinding spices

Freshly ground spices have a much stronger aroma than pre-ground ones.

• A pepper mill for black pepper.
• A mortar and pestle for small amounts and for crushing seeds roughly.
• An electric spice grinder, often a coffee grinder kept only for spices, for larger amounts and fine powders.

Grind small amounts at a time, ideally just before cooking. Toast whole spices first, then let them cool before grinding.

To clean a spice grinder, grind a spoonful of dry rice or bread, which absorbs oils and odors, then wipe it out.

Spice blends

Blends save time and give balanced flavor. Common ones include:

Blends vary between brands and households. Taste before using a new one, and consider making your own from spices you already have.

When to add spices

• At the start, bloomed in oil, for deep, rounded flavor in curries, stews and soups.
• During cooking, for spices that need time to soften and release flavor, such as cinnamon sticks, bay leaves and star anise.
• At the end, for delicate or aromatic spices and blends whose fragrance fades with long cooking, such as garam masala, freshly ground pepper or a sprinkle of smoked paprika.
• In rubs and marinades, mixed with salt and oil before cooking meat, fish or vegetables.
• In baking, mixed with the dry ingredients so they are evenly distributed.

Remember to remove whole spices such as bay leaves, cinnamon sticks and cardamom pods before serving, or warn your guests.

Balancing spices

If a dish tastes too spicy or the spices are overwhelming:

• add more of the base ingredients, such as tomatoes, beans or broth;
• stir in dairy, such as yogurt, cream or coconut milk;
• add a little sweetness or acid, such as a pinch of sugar or a squeeze of lemon;
• serve with plain rice or bread.

If a dish tastes flat, it may need salt or acid rather than more spice. Our guide to how to season food explains this balance.

Frequently asked questions

Are old spices dangerous?

Generally not, if they have been stored dry, but they lose flavor. Throw away spices that smell musty, show signs of moisture or mold, or have insects in them.

Should I buy whole or ground spices?

Whole spices keep their flavor longer and taste fresher when ground at home. Ground spices are convenient for those you use quickly or cannot grind easily.

Why do my spices taste bitter?

They may have burned while toasting or blooming. Use moderate heat, stir constantly and remove them as soon as they smell fragrant.

You will find more ways to stock and store food well in the Pantry & Storage section.

The bottom line

A small collection of fresh spices does more for everyday cooking than a cupboard of faded jars. Buy small amounts from shops with good turnover, choose whole spices for those you can grind easily, and store everything in airtight containers in a cool, dark place away from the stove. Toast whole spices in a dry pan, bloom them in hot fat to carry their flavor through a dish, grind them just before use and add delicate blends at the end. Trust your nose: if a spice has lost its aroma, it is time to replace it.